Vermentino is the best-regarded white wine from the Italian island of Sardinia, and Argiolas is one of its best-known producers. A bottle of the fresh, zippy Costamolino, named for the area where the grapes are grown, will transport you to the Mediterranean.

   The wine is very fragrant, with floral, piney and somewhat herbaceous notes that reflect the native flora of the island. Those notes carry through to the palate, too, accenting the white stone fruit and lemon flavors. The wine finishes with a bit of pleasant, briny bitterness that pairs nicely with seafood and vegetable dishes.

   The 2021 is in some stores now, but I’ve been drinking this wine for many years, and it’s quite consistent from vintage to vintage. The wine sells for around $15.