Beaujolais – especially the wines from the French region’s 10 top growing areas, known as crus – is fine for any time of year, but I particularly like it in the summer, when I give the bottle a little chill before opening. Nearly all the wines of Beaujolais are red, made from the gamay noir grape, and they’re extremely versatile with food. But they’re often overlooked.

   With Bastille Day (July 14) approaching and the Tour de France on television, France has been on my mind, so it seemed like a good time to give Beaujolais a little love.

   The 2023 Château de La Chaize Brouilly, from Beaujolais’ southernmost cru, offers bright berry flavors accented by a savory, peppery note. It’s nicely balanced, finishing with medium tannins. The suggested retail price is $28, but you can probably find it for a little less.

   I had a bottle of the wine in New Orleans recently with a fried chicken sandwich, but it would make a fine pairing with any grilled poultry or all but the most delicate fish.