Condado de Haza is among the holdings of Spain’s Fernández Rivera family, of Tinto Pesquera fame. Both estates are in Spain’s Ribera del Duero region, and Alejandro Fernández was among the area’s pioneers, establishing Pesquera in the early 1970s.

   The first vineyards for Condado de Haza were planted in 1987, and a winery was built among the vines.

   Ribera del Duero is a viticultural area of extremes, with very hot summers and extremely cold winters. Vines are planted at about 2,500 feet of elevation. Tempranillo, known locally as tinto fino, is the dominant grape. (The Duero River, by the way, is perhaps better known by its name in Portugal, the Douro.)

   The 2019 Condado de Haza Crianza, made from 100 percent tempranillo, is fairly dark, with flavors of red and black cherry, accented by baking spice and roasted coffee. It has good concentration, enough freshness to keep things lively and a long, drying finish. Prices for Ribera del Duero wines have risen as they’ve become more fashionable, but this one is a good buy at around $25.