Tannat’s historical home is in southwest France, but this hearty red grape is now more closely associated with Uruguay, where it’s become the flagship grape. It’s by far the most widely planted grape, at more than 4,000 acres. Although tannat has a reputation as a very full-bodied, tannic wine, it is actually made in a range of styles, from fruity and easy to drink to bigger and more structured.

   Uruguay’s first tannat vines are believed to have been planted in 1870, in a northern part of the country along the Uruguay River. But growing conditions are more favorable to the south, and that’s where most of the vineyards – for tannat, as well as other grapes – are situated today. (There’s one wine in the tasting notes that follow that’s from the far north of the country, near the border with Brazil.) For years, the most important growing region has been Canelones, a short drive northeast from Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital. More than 60 percent of Uruguay’s wine production is from Canelones. But plantings have been increasing in the coastal area east of Montevideo, led by the huge Bodega Garzón estate.

  Temperatures in most of the growing areas are moderate, but high humidity is an issue. Plus, tannat ripens late, so ill-timed rains can be a problem. The good news is that the tannat grape has a thick skin and resists rot. Still, breezy conditions and sufficient airflow in the vineyard are important.

   All styles of tannat are a good bet as we move into the cooler months and heartier cuisines. The most full-bodied styles are excellent with beef – Uruguay produces outstanding grass-fed beef – or any type of stew.

   Uruguayan wines still have spotty availability in most U.S. markets, but they’re worth seeking out. The recommendations that follow were tasted as part of a Uruguay Wine webinar earlier this year.

   The 2020 Viña Progreso Revolution Tannat ($18) is made in a lighter, fresher style, with a lightish color, lively red and black fruit, a hint of cocoa and medium tannins. By contrast, the 2020 Montes Toscanini Gran Tannat Premium ($50) is very dark and dense, with black fruit, spice and firm tannins. It’s a big style, but it’s well balanced.

   Fans of reds with lots of plump, sweet fruit should consider the full-bodied 2020 Bodega Bouza Tannat ($27). It’s dense and inky-dark, with ripe fruit, notes of chocolate and spice and firm tannins on the finish. 

   The preceding wines are from the south of the country, but the 2023 Bodega Cerro Chapeu Castel Pujol Folklore Tinto ($23) is from the far north. The wine, which includes 20 percent petit manseng (a white grape) in the blend, is very fresh, with dark fruit, a floral note and drying tannins.

   The tasting did not include a wine from Bodega Garzón, near the coast. The winery – owned by Argentine billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni, who also owns wineries in Argentina, California, Italy and France – is a large and impressive operation, and the wines have some of the best distribution in the States. The tannats (there are several, at varying price levels) are very good; another Garzón wine to check out is the excellent albariño. 

   If you’re interested in sampling tannat but are having trouble finding examples from Uruguay, there are some very good versions from California, especially from Paso Robles.