Bubbly and the holiday season go hand in hand. The sky’s the limit for what you can pay, but this moderately priced Mendocino County sparkling wine ($24) is an attractive choice. It’s made in the traditional method, like Champagne; the winery is owned by Maison Louis Roederer, a leading Champagne house.

   And the Scharffenberger Brut Excellence is a delicious wine, especially at this price: fresh and toasty, with flavors of lemon, green apple and brioche, a fine texture and a persistent finish.

   Cheers!