Sherry, the fortified wine from the Jerez region of southern Spain, is too often overlooked. You’ll see the occasional article about how sherry is poised to make a comeback – and it is a wine that’s popular with a lot of sommeliers – but the promised renaissance never seems to come.

   Too bad, because sherry is an interesting change of pace from table wines, especially with the right foods. Although some sherries are sweet, let’s concentrate for the moment on the versatile dry sherry called fino. Finos, which should be served well chilled, pair particularly well with salty foods, from nuts to olives to cured ham to some seafood. Despite being fortified, finos usually are around 15 percent alcohol – some table wines are higher!  

   The Álvaro Domecq La Janda is a good example of fino: tangy, savory and a little nutty, with a fresh yeast dough aroma and flavor. It’s reasonably priced at around $19. As with all finos, an open bottle should be refrigerated and drunk within a week.