Beaujolais, the new wine of that year’s vintage, is released every year on the third Thursday in November. People used to make a big production of the wine’s arrival, even in the U.S. Now the new wine is greeted in a more subdued manner.

   Still, I always like to try a nouveau or two, and that’s especially true this year. The 2022 is considered an excellent vintage, but the crop is small because of a prolonged drought and hot summer. Some vintners who usually produce a nouveau didn’t do so this year, opting to reserve the gamay noir grapes for their regular bottlings.

   But you should have no trouble finding a bottle from Georges Duboeuf, the best-known producer in Beaujolais, which is north of Lyon. The 2022 Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau, made from gamay grown in the southern part of the appellation, is fresh and fruity, with ample cherry flavors, a note of anise and more weight and structure than is often found in nouveau. It’s best to give the wine, which pairs nicely with poultry, a slight chill before serving. You should be able to find the Duboeuf nouveau for $10-$12.