Lugana is a picturesque white wine appellation at the southern end of Lake Garda in northern Italy, astride the border between the regions of Lombardy and the Veneto. The lake moderates the area’s climate, keeping it warmer in winter and cooler in summer and mitigating the spring frost danger. It’s a small appellation of about 5,000 acres under vine.

   The dominant grape of Lugana is turbiana. The wines range from fresh and floral to more complex. There are also late-harvest and sparkling versions.

   This Lugana from Tommasi – a producer probably better known for Amarone and Valpolicella, both reds – is a good introduction to the wine. It’s floral and a little creamy, with ripe pear and peach flavors, a kiss of almond, good freshness and a persistent finish. The wine, which costs around $20, is a good companion for shellfish.