Like many of you, I’ve watched with dismay as the price of good pinot noir climbs ever higher. It’s a variety that’s so versatile that I could drink it with almost everything – if I could afford to.

So here’s a great value: the 2019 Lucky Rock County Cuvée Pinot Noir, for just $22. It’s a blend of grapes from four vineyards in three counties, Monterey, San Benito and Sonoma. The wine is aged in French oak barrels, 10 percent of them new.

The result is a pinot that’s structured yet supple, with pretty raspberry and cherry flavors, a dash of baking spice and a savory, forest floor note. The Lucky Rock more than held its own in a blind tasting with wines at three times the price.