“In victory, you deserve Champagne. In defeat, you need it.” That brilliant line (or some variation) has been attributed to both Napoleon Bonaparte and Winston Churchill. With the current COVID-19 crisis and resulting economic troubles, it seems there haven’t been too many victories to celebrate of late. But these are, of course, the times when you need Champagne.

Today is Champagne Day – at least that’s what the Champagne Bureau, a trade association, has declared. So lift a glass today or sometime over the weekend. You deserve it.

My choice would be the very fine non-vintage Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve ($69), which is precise and racy, with fresh white fruit, a touch of yeastiness and a lovely texture. If that’s a little too pricey for you, you should be able to find something else wonderful (Champagne, of course) for around $40.