Now that we’re approaching the unofficial start to summer, I’m on the lookout for crisp, refreshing white wines to drink with lighter foods or to sip during my socially distanced “drinks on the driveway” with the neighbors. This delicious white from Tablas Creek in Paso Robles is always one of my favorites.

Vermentino is best known as an Italian grape, but it’s also grown in France’s Rhône Valley, where it’s known as rolle, so it fits into the Rhône focus at Tablas. The wine is very fresh, with citrusy fruit and a fleshiness that stands up to food. The long finish is marked by a briny, saline character that has me coming back for more.

It’s a little pricey, at $27, but it’s a worthwhile, refreshing splurge that packs a lot of flavor.