In my column for the San Jose Mercury News (read it here), I recommended a number of California sparkling wines to celebrate Valentine’s Day. If you’re on a modest budget, California bubbly is probably the way to go. But if you have more to spend, consider rosé Champagne.

Despite its price tag, which can be considerable, rosé Champagne has seen good growth in the U.S. over the past 10 years, according to figures from the Champagne Bureau USA, which represents the region. Although U.S. imports of rosé Champagne dipped slightly from 2013 to 2014, they’re up almost 200 percent since 2004. Rosé Champagne represents nearly 15 percent of all Champagne shipments to this country.

(If you’re reading this, you probably already know that real Champagne comes only from a specified area of northern France, east of Paris. Some California producers are allowed to use the term “California champagne,” but it’s really an oxymoron.)

Here are a few rosé Champagnes I’ve enjoyed in recent weeks.

Laurent-Perrier is well-known for its rosé, packaged in a distinctive bottle. The non-vintage Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut ($100) has a pretty salmon pink color and flavors that are lean and delicate, with red fruit and some minerality.

The 2010 Louis Roederer Brut Rosé ($80) exhibits a pale rose gold color; it’s yeasty, with lively berry and citrus and fine texture. The non-vintage Charles Heidsieck Brut Rosé ($85) is fresh and racy, with red fruit, a hint of creaminess and good length.

Moët & Chandon is huge, but quality is high and the wines have good availability. The non-vintage Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial ($55) is a leaner style, with red fruit and mineral, while the 2006 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé ($90) is richer, with red fruit, spice and mineral notes and a fine texture.

For a rich, fruity style, there’s the non-vintage Besserat de Bellefon “Cuvée des Moines” Brut Rosé ($65), which is creamy and bright, with red fruit and a hint of brioche.

The aforementioned wines are all from Champagne houses that buy at least some of their grapes. If you’re looking for a grower Champagne, I’m a fan of the René Geoffroy Rosé de Saignée ($74).

A less-expensive alternative to Champagne from another part of France is crémant d’Alsace, an appellation in which the rosés are made from pinot noir. A good example is the non-vintage Gustave Lorentz Crémant d’Alsace Rosé ($23), which is a pale salmon color and offers pretty strawberry fruit and nice freshness. It’s a great buy.