Bonny Doon Vineyard is celebrating the 40th anniversary vintage of Le Cigare Volant, the winery’s iconic red Rhône-style blend, with a special liter format called Take Me to Your Liter.
For the uninitiated, Bonny Doon founder Randall Grahm was one of California’s early adopters of Rhône grapes in his winemaking. For the name of the blend that became the winery’s flagship, he was inspired by a 1954 ordinance in France that prohibited flying saucers (or flying cigars) from landing in the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, home to another, similar red blend.
Grahm sold Bonny Doon to WarRoom Cellars in 2020. Although he doesn’t have a formal title now, Grahm consults with Bonny Doon winemaker Nicole Walsh on the wines, and his witticisms are evident in the winery’s marketing and communications. Grahm’s current projects include Popelouchum, his vineyard in San Benito County, and The Language of Yes, a joint venture with Gallo.
Cigare’s style has evolved over the years to become a little lighter and more approachable, with a more affordable price tag. Indeed, this wine – a Central Coast blend dominated by grenache, with portions of syrah and cinsaut and a dash of petite sirah – is easy to drink, with spicy flavors of raspberry and roasted strawberry, accented by a hint of smoked meat. The finish is smooth, with fine tannins. It would make a good addition to any holiday gathering. Better yet, the liter bottle – appropriate for a crowd – is priced the same as the 750-milliliter version, at $15.